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How Do I Choose my Diamond Shape? The Complete Guide

A diamond is a classic stone that carries a lot of symbolism and meaning, most often used for those special, celebratory pieces of jewellery such as engagement rings. There is a lot to think about when choosing a diamond, from the size to the clarity, but its shape (or cut) is particularly important to consider as it reflects you and your personality.

Whether you want a timeless classic shape or something more modern and distinctive, we’ll help you find the perfect lab-grown diamond with our comprehensive guide.

A Classic Cut For Traditionalists With Style

Round Brilliant Cut

The round brilliant cut is one of the most timeless diamond shapes. It is also the most popular cut, making up over 75% of all diamond sales. Round brilliant diamonds are cut with modern techniques to maximise brightness and brilliance to reflect a higher amount of light. 

The 58 facets that make up the mirror-like reflective surface of the round brilliant stone create maximum light reflection, so although it is one of the more simple shapes, it is the most sparkly on the market! This also makes it one of the most expensive cuts, as there is a higher amount of wastage in the cutting process.

Round Cut Symbolism

The round cut is a traditional choice for engagement rings, not only for its brilliance and sparkle but because the round shape symbolises never-ending love. The shape can also represent honesty and fidelity.

For The Individualists Who Love A Modern Twist

Oval Cut

The oval-cut diamond is similar to the round cut but is slightly elongated—perfect for those who appreciate tradition yet still want to show off their individuality. It is durable and strong because it has no exposed or pointed edges, which are more susceptible to damage. The longer shape can also make these diamonds appear larger to the eye than a round diamond, but with a lower cost. 

Oval Style

Although it has a similar facet structure and the brilliance of the round cut, it has a ‘fancier’ shape that offers a sleek, stylish and very flattering look. 

Oval Symbolism

Another popular choice for engagement rings, this egg-shaped diamond can represent family and fertility. 

Designed For Those Who Like To Do Things A Little Differently

Pear Shape

The pear or teardrop cut is a rarer shape that is distinctive and eye-catching. The striking shape with its pointed end has made a fashionable comeback in the last few years and makes for a statement piece. This also makes it an excellent choice for a unique engagement ring.  

Is a Pear-Shape Cut Diamond Right for You?

Similar to the oval cut, the pear cut diamond is flattering on the finger and appears larger than a round cut diamond because of its elongated shape, but it also costs less than a round cut with the same 4C specifications. However, there are some disadvantages to the pear cut. For example, you will have to choose carefully to ensure that it is entirely symmetrical, and it can be more easily damaged because of the exposed sharp tip. 

For The Old-School Romantics

Marquise Cut

The marquise-cut diamond is an elegant shape that is truly unique. Also referred to as ‘navette’ diamonds, which means ‘little ship’ in French, they were initially designed for King Louis XIV of France, who wanted a shape that resembled his lover’s lips. A diamond in this cut offers a bold and vintage choice for those who love an elegant look.

Marquise Design

The long, narrow, eye-shaped stone has two pointed ends, making it perfect for someone with elegant, long hands. This is a classic choice for an engagement ring and can be custom-designed. 

Tip: Due to its elongated shape, symmetry is fundamental, so check the stone carefully. Please note that the pointed ends can also make it more prone to damage. However, we can avoid this with special setting styles, which you can ask about in your Fyne ring consultation.

Crafted For The Bold And The Brave

Emerald Cut

This elegant rectangular cut is typically used for emerald gemstones, designed in a sophisticated yet bold shape for the confident and adventurous. 

Is an Emerald Cut Right for You?

This cut has many long, straight lines (also known as a step cut for this reason), allowing for excellent light reflection. However, it can be easier to see inclusions (imperfections) because of the large surface area, and its fewer facets mean slightly less sparkle than a traditional round-cut diamond.

A Modern Cut With Serious Sparkle

Radiant Cut

This square or rectangular-shaped diamond is similar to the emerald, but it was designed to maximise brilliance and fire (reflected white and rainbow light). The most modern cut on the market, radiant diamonds are a daring choice that cost considerably less than a traditional round cut while still being super sparkly. Their lower price is down to limited wastage during the cutting process. 

Although the round cut has the edge on brilliance and fire, radiant cut diamonds have more facets (70 in total), making for an intense sparkle. This is also one of the most unique choices for an engagement ring, as they only make up 2% of all diamond sales.

Is the Radiant Shape Right for You?

The bevelled edges mean a smaller likelihood of damage from snagging or chipping, so it’s a good choice for those with a more active lifestyle. The slightly elongated shape means the cut is also more flattering on the finger. The only disadvantage with this diamond cut is that it can appear smaller than it is because it can hold most of its weight on the bottom half (pavilion)—but its sparkle makes up for its size!

A Classic Look With Contemporary Brilliance

Cushion (Modified) Brilliant Cut

Somewhere between a round and a rectangular shape, this cut offers something different without being too bold. It’s perfect if you are looking for something traditional without spending as much as you would for a round shape, and it is one of the oldest cuts you can buy. 

The Cushion Cut Design

Cushion-cut diamonds are known for their fiery flashes of reflected light (the rainbow-coloured shine) as opposed to the brilliant white light sparkle. The rounded edges give the stone a softer, more romantic look than other rectangular shapes, and its similarity to vintage gems that were cut using old techniques gives it a classic feel with modern brilliance.  

There are a lot of variations on the cushion cut, from size to elongation, making it a versatile choice for any ring design. No two are alike!

How To Choose The Best Shape For You

Ultimately, your choice of diamond is down to your individual taste and distinct style. 

Classic & Timeless

You can’t go wrong with a simple round cut diamond for a classic shape that will never go out of fashion. Although this shape is often more expensive, it’s well worth investing as part of a sustainable approach to style. 

Read more about the best ways to shop sustainably

Best Value

Oval or pear-shaped diamonds are the best value shapes, costing less than a round cut for the same amount of carats, clarity and colour. 

For those with a smaller budget, the radiant and cushion cut diamonds are good value, with the classic look and brilliance for less.

Modern Cuts

On the other hand, if you prefer something unique that showcases your individuality, why not try a marquise or emerald cut stone? 

Each lab-grown diamond is as unique as its wearer -  so make sure you are completely happy with the symmetry, clarity and size and be sure to check for any imperfections or a prominent bow-tie effect (the dark band in the middle). We hope this guide will help you find the perfect diamond shape to suit your lifestyle and personality. 



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